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juddyB |
recovering drums (before pic added) |
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hi Im new to the forum. I found this site became
real interested in whats going on. i currently have a
tama imperial star that I am going to do a major over
haul on. my first question is with recovering the drums.
its currently is covered in jet black covering and its
pretty beat up so I was wondering if there is a way to
take it off and recover it. I will most likely recover it
with vaneer since my dad works with vaneer. is this a
complex job? the second is I would like to put heads on
the bottom of the toms. is this doable and if so what do
i have to do? can someone give me a list of parts needed
and where to get the right router bit? I already got all
the lugs and bolts I guess i only need hoops and some
insite. thanks and great site you all got going
here.
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sylvester stevo |
Recouver Drum | #1 | ||
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Juddy Backgammon, welcome to The Forum.
First of all, just gets rid of the black covering- and when I say get rid of it, find the seem where the ends of the plastic are and rip the whole damn thing right off...then to the trash, my friend. Working with veneer is subjective; some really suck to work with, and others are just a breeze- if your father works with veneer like you say, just get him to help you out...then it'll be no sweat. To work with vaneer the right way takes some skill, so don't attempt to do it on your own if this is a first. Other than that, it should be a solid deal. Now, in order' to put bottom heads on the toms- of course this is doable. I'm not sure if I'm familiar with any old Tama Imperialstar sets that were made like concert toms: ones with no resonant (or bottom) heads. I'm thinking that you picked this drumset off second hand from someplace that favored the single batter-head sound and ripped the lugs off of the bottom side of the shell. ehhh.... All you have to do is this: Assuming that the existing lugs and hardware on the shells are a bit past their prime (and are in need of being retired), I would hop onto any of these websites that feature a list of replacement lugs (such as Drum Supply House! Really, this is a no-brainer...but you need to make sure to TAKE YOUR TIME- you don't want to rush it (because of course, one can't stand looking at a drum without rushing all that he/she's doing in order to play it) so it ends up that you totally destroyed your shell. All of the vet drum builders on here remember as vividly as I can how much it ABSOLUTELY BLEW when we destroyed our first shells when we were just starting out. Remember, there will be an order to things to make the process go quickly, most cleanly, and precisely: (1) Strip off the existing hardware and wraps off of the drum and SAND IT DOWN. Get all of the filfth, grime, holes, chips, dings, glue stains and all the other BS off of the drum. Make it naked. This includes filling all of the applicable holes and gouges that exist on the shell that you don't want in the final product. (2) Apply what ever finish you choose to cover your drum in- covered and painted/stained drums alike. (3) Drill your holes and install your hardware of choice. This step, just like finishes, can be messed up VERY easily and cause a complete disaster in your rebuilding process. TAKE YOUR TIME. (4) Install all brand new heads of your choice and take a good 45 minutes to tune each drum- there's nothing like perfection. (5) Mail the guys at DSH in Nashville thanking them for their services and supplying you with everything that you need in order to refinish your drums. (6) Play the damned things! Follow that VERY BASIC guide and you will be well on your way to having the closest thing to brand new drums. Enjoy!!! -Sylvester Steov 5( www.timberframemag.com/Ti...frame2.jpg -+ |
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gooshmusic |
Don't forget... | #2 | ||
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Be careful when removing the wrap. If it is glued
around the entire shell, "just ripping it
off" could take off chunks of wood along with
the wrap. You may need to use a heat gun (or even a hair
dryer will do in most cases) to heat up and melt the glue
as you gently pull the wrap off.
Also, if these are single headed concert toms you're talking about, you will need to have a bearing edge cut on the bottom of each drum before installing the new heads. I've never done bearing edges myself before, but I'm sure one or more of the fine craftsmen on this site can offer up some advice on this matter. Chris |
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juddyB |
Re: Don't forget... | #3 | ||
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thanks for the insight guys. yeah they are concert
toms and i guess heres the deal I dont mind the way they
sound but I have a guy that uses the set alot and said to
throw heads on the bottom so im going to try and do that.
and as for the vaneer its paper back which is stronger
and whatnot.
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brizak79 |
Re: Don't forget... | #4 | ||
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Good lord, Sylvester learned to speak ENGLISH!!!
"Music is moral law. It
gives soul to the universe, wings to the mind, flight to
the imagination, a charm to sadness, and a gaiety and
life to everything. It is the essence of order and leads
to all that is good,true, and
beautiful." -Plato
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juddyB |
Re: Don't forget... | #5 | ||
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i thought the same thing lol jp um and i guess this
is an opinionated question but i only got 2 options in
the paperback vaneer i want and its cherry or maple what
do you guys think?
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sylvester stevo |
veneer... | #6 | ||
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Both wood grains, patterns, and colors in the
veneers that you have to choose are very nice...it's just
all on personal preference. Hell, even consider cutting
up the veneer so it simulates a maple/cherry segmented
shell!
Razberries shells on' miey shellz almuost done, lookiem usch like di's one's idea. Anyway, yes i forgot to mention adding a bearing edge on the bottom side of the rim where you're adding the resonant head. And yes, when "ripping off" the existing wrap, it will pull off some grain and leave you with what looks like toothpick splinters missing from the shell...unfortunately, you will inevitably get SOME of this, no matter what you use or how careful you are. You can always fill it in anyway- you're putting a veneer over it. About bearing edges... It's always good to use a router tool for this, but if you don't mind taking a bit more time, you can save some money by just, yes, filing it down with a wood file. I've done this a couple times when I am away from my multi-million dollar mass production drum factory...er, my woodworking studio in (unspecified downtown area, USA). But hey, you'll get some good one-on-one time with your beloved Tama concert toms. Me's always aespeaker goo der english's. dI's problems wiht #da people's on theis forum iz they's donotlike forighneers. dsBuk 4 Have good time, -syl vester steov exca |
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Geddy E |
Sylvester learns english... | #7 | ||
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1. Welcome to the forum Judy B.!
2. My vote is cherry veneer. I LOVE red drums. 3. Sylvester reminds me of Jar Jar Binks in Star Wars! Language barrier aside, I think he will get his point across eventually. We just need to have a little patience with him thats all. Geddy |
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juddyB |
Re: Sylvester learns english... | #8 | ||
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yeah i think im going cherry drums with maple bass
drum hoops
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Geddy E |
re: | #9 | ||
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Oh Yeah! Can't wait to see pics of them when you
get rolling on the project. Before and after pics would
be cool.
Geddy |
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DrJam |
Re: Sylvester learns english... | #10 | ||
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I remember the single-headed Imperialstar. In fact,
I originaly bought single-headed Superstars, their other
line at that time, but had bottom heads installed in
about 1983.
I had bearing edges cut by a local drum shop, but my father and I drilled the holes for the lugs ourselves. The 6.5x10" was too shallow for the lugs, so I actually had to stagger them. Funny, you see that a lot now. As mentioned by Stevo above, you may want to get new lugs. Even if you can find matching lugs, they could be as expensive as getting new lugs for the whole kit. Also, if you are going to veneer, think about a really cool veneer. Don't get me wrong, I love cherry, but it looks like a "normal" wood. Check out some of the cool veneers at www.oakwood.com . I used the bubble-free paper-backed veneer, and did a kit in Kevasingo (waterfall bubinga). Looks really cool, and at about $5/sq ft, I had enough to do a 7 piece kit and 2 side snares for less than $200 delivered. Just a thought, DrJam |
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